Emilia-Romagna has been facing an unprecedented water crisis since June 2025. The Po River’s discharge sits more than 60% below its historical average (1991-2020), and the Permanent Observatory of Water Uses estimates that available water can guarantee irrigation for only 10 more days. Meanwhile, successive heat waves exceeding 40°C are creating a double climate shock that directly threatens Parmesan production—the iconic cheese that generates about €4.5 billion a year and has embodied Italian agro-food know-how for 800 years.
The Po Valley in a Water Crisis: The Po River Runs Dry
The Po Valley accounts for roughly 50% of the nation’s cattle farming and produces nearly a third of Italy’s agri-food output. Yet, in June 2025, the Permanent Observatory on Water Uses issued an unequivocal alert. The Po River, a vital artery for this agricultural region, is running more than 60% below its historic average. Water reserves are no longer sufficient to irrigate forage crops beyond 10 days. This drought strikes at the heart of an agricultural system already weakened by decades of intensification.
The production of Parmigiano Reggiano rests on strict specifications. Cattle must be fed exclusively with locally grown fodder cultivated in the five authorized provinces (Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua, Bologna). Without rain, grass won’t grow, hay becomes scarce, and alfalfa crops wither. “If it doesn’t rain, the grass won’t grow, we can’t produce hay, and obtaining the milk needed to make the cheese is impossible,” warns Nicola Bertinelli, president of the Consorzio del Parmigiano Reggiano and head of a family dairy since 1895. The regulatory constraint of the PDO (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) forbids any use of imported forages, turning drought into a productivity dead end.
Extreme Heat Waves Threaten Parmesan Milk Production
The summers of 2025 and 2026 are piling up heat waves. When the thermometer climbs above 40°C (about 104°F), cows suffer intense heat stress. They eat less, spend more time lying down seeking relief, and their milk production drops by up to 10%. “Extreme heat affects the quality and quantity of milk,” confirms Nicola Bertinelli. For a sector that processes millions of liters of milk into 40 kg wheels each day, this drop in yield jeopardizes the economic balance of thousands of farms. Agricultural organizations like Coldiretti and CIA (Confederazione Italiana degli Agricoltori) Reggio Emilia now call these extreme climate events the “new normal” rather than exceptions.
Producers are investing heavily in ventilation, misting, and thermal insulation to protect their animals. But these infrastructures push up energy costs. During heat peaks, electricity consumption rises by 30% in barns and aging aging rooms (storages for aging wheels) where the cheeses must mature for 12 to 36 months under controlled temperatures. Giancarlo Ravanetti, director of the Magazzini Generali delle Tagliate, oversees hundreds of thousands of wheels stored in climate-controlled caves. Each additional degree adds an energy surcharge that gnaws at producers’ margins, without a commensurate increase in selling prices.
Towards a Resilient Agroecology: Adaptation Solutions Underway
In the face of the crisis, debates over structural measures are multiplying. The creation of water reservoirs (invasi) and the modernization of irrigation networks emerge as absolute priorities. Italy must rethink its national water management policy to secure supplies for forage crops. These large-scale investments require coordination among the State, the Regions, and local authorities. But time is running out. As Linkiesta notes in its recent investigation, heat has become “the ingredient Parmigiano Reggiano hadn’t anticipated.”
Producers are turning to renewable energy to limit the financial and environmental impact of cooling. Solar panels, geothermal energy, and biomass help reduce dependence on fossil fuels. These solutions, though costly to install, offer a mid-term profitability outlook. They align with a transition toward ecological practices compatible with the cheese-making industry’s values, which for centuries have championed artisanal production respectful of natural cycles.
Agronomic research is also exploring genetic selection. Identifying and promoting cattle breeds better suited to high temperatures could mitigate milk production losses. However, this approach raises ethical and regulatory questions. The PDO designation imposes strict standards, and any genetic modification would need to be validated by the Consorzio del Parmigiano Reggiano to preserve the product’s authenticity.
